| Title: |
Aitana. |
|
| Published: |
High Magazine. |
|
| Date: |
January 2000 |
|
| Author: |
Geoff Birtles. |
|
| |
In the begginning, somebody said "Calpe"
and like a fearful flock we all went to Calpe. I became more adventurous.
Last Bonfire Day, I strolled along the seafront at Benidorm enjoying
the hot climate that still prevailed and I was expected to remain
so throughout the winter. There in a small café I enjoyed a
full English breakfast with coffee for a mere 1.40 pounds and looked
out pass the topless old folk exercising on the beach to the glimmering
Mediterranean Sea which still sported some bathers. |
|
| It all look very tiring and I made a mental note not
to do this when my day came. |
|
| There I was at the foot of the Costa Blanca, a mountainous
limestone coastal area offering easy and cheap access from Britain
through its airport of Alicante with over three hundred days of sunshine
and more to the point, for some, more crags that you could grapple
in a lifetime. The area is well known among British climbers but probably
less so by hill walkers. True there is a guide book called Mountain
Walks on the Costa Blanca by Bob Stanfield but the venue is clearly
not as popular as winter walking in Mallorca which is the very thing
that makes Aitana so attractive. The British climbers first came to
this area lured by the 328 m(1076 ft) high Peñon de Ifach,
a rock pinnacle just out of the sea at Calpe. It offers rock climbs
of various standards of difficulty and a footpath t the summit via
a ma-made tunnel which is a scramble in some places on polished limestone
and you could easily get killed if you slip in the wrong place, which
somebody did in August. So when people talked of going climbing in
Spain, they invaribly meant Calpe but as time went by the mountains
inmediately inland were explored, notably by Joe Brow and his chums,
who climbed numerous routes and recorded none of them. Thanks Joe. |
| |
| Never mind, I was on a boondoggle as editor of High
along with a couple of other outdoor writers and a few people representing
trekking companies.These trips involve somebody paying your air fare,
arranging lovely accommodation in mountain guesthouses and then forcing
you to go to restaurants where they ply you with food and drink.I've
not done many of these but I'm getting to quite like them. |
|
| There's always a downside though which was that I was
made to walk in the mountains and around the Aitana region. I didn't
know what Aitana was until I got there but it is an area, a mountain
range and eponymously at 1558m the highest summit of this limestone
massif sometimes refered to as the "Sierras of the Marinas". |
|
| However, our guides, Jose and Jeroni didn't like these
mountains described as either the Costa Blanca or the Marinas and
held to the name of Sierra Aitana on the brochure fotr their new compant
Terra Ferma which is providing walking trips and rock climbing courses.
These are local boys who know the area well and have a deep passion
about the environment. |
| |
 |
There are tracks all over these mountains navigable
by four drive vehicles and you can walk them if you so wish. However
the real pleasure is via narrow path which are not always well defined,
the consequence of loosing your way being not so much getting into
danger but having to hack through gorse, most likely whilst wearing
shorts. Whilst on one walk, we were invaded by a convoy of holiday
trippers on safari, which was essential a group of very sad people
in open top jeeps. To our glee, though, the first jeep kicked up so
much dust it choked all those following. As in Britain, these four
wheelers need controlling by legislation. |
| |
| There are various significant landmarks in the area
which help you get your bearings. Principally, the Puig Campana, at
1410 m. is spottable on the approach flight.This mountain is of alpine
proportions and the most spectacular. Its summit is split by a mantrap
some three pitches deep and it is this slot which identifies it so
easily. It looks not unlike the Drus when viewed from the coast road.The
other easily identifiable feature is the Peñon de Ifach mentioned
above. Apart from being a spectacular feature in its own right it
also marks the end of the famous Bernia Ridge described as a mini
Cuillin of similar height, but only four kilometres long. It does
however, contain some serious rock ridges so route finding and care
are called for. |
|
| Being a limestone region, surface water is scarce so
you must prepare accordingly. You can walk between guesthouses with
luggage forwarded on, a list of which can be found on or via the web
page of Terra Ferma. The rainy season is mainly October and March
and the rest is likelyto be blue skies. The summer is too hot for
strenuous days . The main things are reliable weather, beautiful unspoilt
mountains and it's both easy and cheap to get there. |
| |
| Environment: |
| |
| |
The sheer delight of this area is how
much it remains unspoilt yet the dangers are both obvious and menacing.
Just down the road from Sella is Benidorm, a boom town on the coast
with power and money. If it flexes its muscle in the direction of
Sella it is hard to see how the locals could resist whatever temptations
were placed before them. Already a new road has brought it that much
nearer and therefore, that much more vulnerable. The picture below
shows the valley of Guadalest, with its ancient moorish Castle de
Guadalest. A major road brings coach loads of people from the coast
on a daily basis and, worst of all, two new hotels are under construction
( circled below) which stand out like the proverbial blot on the landscape.
These will surely bring money, to the area, but at the expense of
its heritage. When you look at the beauty and inocence of nearby Sella
you can only hope the locals will have the strength to fight off the
invasion of big business. |